1. Hangboard training for climbers with less than 2 year of climbing (consistency!) is tricky! high probability that finger strength at this point is not what’s limiting these climbers. In that case I recommend you to consult a climbing coach and train on hangboards only if you have a training plan from someone you trust!
2. Do not hangboard with high loads if you are still growing! (usually under the age of 16±). High loads of finger strength training such as weighted fingerboarding at this age may cause stress fractures in your fingers and even injure and close your bone’s growing plate (the cartilage area where the bone is growing from) and cause finger deformities.
3. Make sure you don’t have any recent finger injuries before starting to train on hangboards.
4. Use only the half crimp or open hand grips - NEVER use the full crimp grip since it causes a lot of stress on your pulleys.
5. Warm up before hanging (rope jumping, pull ups, easy hangs etc.) and try to hang directly below the hangboard in order to prevent unnecessary swing that may reduce your ability to hang.
6. FORM: Hang with your scapulas slightly retracted, shoulders engaged (chest out), elbows slightly flexed, abs and glutes engaged and keep looking forward while hanging.
7. If at some point during an hangboard session you are having trouble keeping the right form (for a few reps) it’s probably a good time to finish the workout! Hanging with bad form may lead to injuries, you may also consider to reduce the intensity for the following sessions.
8. If you are having trouble keeping a right hanging form even with good holds and when fully recovered - high probability that you lack some upper body strength (could be for example due to scapular stabilizers and rotators cuffs weakness)
9. Don't try to replace a climbing session at the gym/crag with a similar duration hangboard session. In general, hangboard sessions are way more intense on your fingers and shoulders than climbing, that's why hangboard sessions are shorter than climbing sessions!
10. Hangboarding comes first! Due to the high intensity of hangboarding, a combined session of climbing and hangboarding will begin with the hangboard session and end with climbing and not the opposite!
» Consider consulting a climbing coach if you are having hard time understanding the correct form and the ways to combine hangboarding in your training program.
Have any further questions?
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