There are many hangboards protocols out there, and the truth is that a protocol is either good or bad for you, it all depends on your goals.
Fitting the protocol to your needs is an art - many factors involve here - route duration, route style, holds style, how steep is the climb, number and location of the cruxes, and more!
In order to understand hangboarding deeply you should be first familiar with the classic protocols. Here i'll introduce you to the most classic "Eva Lopez-Eric Horst-Style" protocol:
- The Repeaters! -
• This protocol is aimed for intermediate to advanced climbers with some hangboarding experience.
• Grip position: half crimp or open hand (NEVER FULL CRIMP⚠️).
• The goal of this protocol is to improve your ability to sustain a short series of high intensity moves (hard boulder problem or a crux in a sport route)
• One set consists 6 hangs of 7 seconds each, resting 3 seconds between hangs.
• Perform 3-6 sets resting 2-3 minutes between sets.
• Hold size should be constant throughout the entire session, and should allow performing all sets and reps with proper technique! Adding weight is another great option to adjust difficulty if hold size gets too small over time
• I recommend one session a week for beginners to intermediate and two sessions a week for intermediate to advanced climbers.
• I recommend you to read my post - 10 Must Read Tips For Hangboarding as well!
» Consider consulting a climbing coach if you are having hard time understanding the correct form and the ways to combine hangboarding in your training program.
Have any further questions?
Comment below or contact me.