"There are many hangboards protocols out there, and the truth is that a protocol is either good or bad for you, it all depends on your goals.
Fitting the protocol to your needs is an art - many factors involve here - route duration, route style, holds style, how steep is the climb, number and location of the cruxes, and more!"
The quote is from the previous hangboarding post, and is always relevant!
In this post i'll once again introduce you to the classic max fingers strength protocol.
There are many new different protocols out there, but this is the basic.
I promise that things will get clearer as well as more complex in future posts!
Maximum Fingers Strength!
• This protocol is aimed for intermediate to advanced climbers with some hangboarding experience.
• Hold should be relatively good, around 15-20mm depth edge.
• Grip position: half crimp or open hand (NEVER FULL CRIMP⚠️).
• You should add enough weight so that you will be able to hang for maximum of 12-15 seconds. This adjustment may take a while, and should be preformed in a different session, with adequate rests between testings until reaching the appropriate weight.
• One set consists 5 hangs of 10 seconds each, resting 3 minute between hangs.
• Perform 1-2 sets resting 4-5 minutes between sets.
• I recommend you to read my post - 10 Must Read Tips For Hangboarding as well!
» Consider consulting a climbing coach if you are having hard time understanding the correct form and the ways to combine hangboarding in your training program.
Have any further questions?
Comment below or contact me.