PINCH STRENGTH! - Is your thumb strong?
Pinch strength is different than classic finger strength training.
For pinch strength hanging is not ideal - it causes more of a fingers + compression work rather than thumb activation.
The better way to address pinch strength is to use blocks and weights.
There are many good protocols out there, I’ll share with you a max strength protocol that I found useful for me and for my trainees (it is similar to the max strength finger strength post)
Pinch Max Strength
• Find weight that you can hold for ~12 seconds to failure.
• Form is important! you want to have you wrist at extension position (meaning back of your hand to the direction of the ceiling) - so that the pinch is parallel to the ground.
• Each set will consist 10 seconds of holding that weight.
• Rest between sets for 1-3 minutes.
• For time efficiency - it is possible to do other strength exercises while resting (for example: heavy squatting)
• Perform 4-6 sets for each hand, 1-3 times a week, add weight progressively from week to week.
» Consider consulting a climbing coach if you are having hard time understanding the correct form and the ways to combine pinch training in your training program.
Have any further questions?
Comment below or contact me.